We just completed a trade show, and several realtors from throughout Kentucky were present. It was, after all, a Kentucky-wide event- the Kentucky Association of REALTORs annual Convention.
The traffic was OK, but what struck me were the comments from a few REALTORS seeking basic information (and better understanding) of the heating and air conditioning aspect of the home inspection.
It bears repeating that the home inspection is not a code inspection, and the home inspector (unless he is a licensed HVAC technician) will NOT dismantle the units and do an exhaustive test. The home inspection is a basic functional test; a buyer who needs or desires a full and complete checkout of the HVAC system should ensure a licensed HVAC tech is present, either at the home inspection or at some other time prior to closing.
At HomeTeam Louisville we will send an HVAC tech upon request. It is typically prudent to make such a request if the unit is more than 15 years old. HVACs are very similar to cars (or human bodies, for that matter)- if they've been taken care of they will last quite a while; if they've been neglected or abused, expect an early demise.
So ... when people ask how long a system is going to last, it is a guess at best, unless one knows the maintenance history of the unit. We STRONGLY recommend having an annual or semi-annual checkup by a local HVAC company anyway. You will hate paying the fee, but it saves you lots of money in the long run. Trust me- I've done it both ways, and regular maintenance is much less headache.
Happy homeowning!
HT initial
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Thursday, September 26, 2013
Thursday, November 29, 2012
Who are the BEST REALTORS IN LOUISVILLE?
I am asked this question quite often, and I have even googled terms such as this to find out if there is some magical "list" of REALTORs that shows the top few. While no such list really exists, some people have put together lists of top performing REALTORs by total transactions, total income, and other criteria you might expect from top-producing professionals. The majority of the best REALTORs I know are not on that list because the list is too small. There are nearly ... wait for it ... 4,000 REALTORs in the Louisville area!
Having been in the real estate business for awhile and having worked with several hundred REALTORs, I can say without question there is no "best" REALTOR out there- but there is probably a 'best" REALTOR for you. What I mean is that, just as people decide which car to buy based on their particular needs and likes, so should they select a best REALTOR fit.
You may have noticed I capitalize the word, "REALTOR". I do so for a reason: all REALTORs are real estate agents, but not all agents are REALTORs. A REALTOR is a member of the National Association of REALTORs and must adhere to certain ethical standards and other requirements of the profession; it is an important moniker and one critical in selecting your agent.
So who are the best REALTORs? They come in many forms, from the very experienced to the not-so-experienced, from the high-volume to the one- or two-a-year kind. As with any consultant or professional you hire, you should consider several people, and then check them out with an interview, by recommendation, internet investigation, or a combination of those and other factors. Find out if they are experienced in the area you are looking (some have particular knowledge of certain parts of Louisville), and if not, find out if they have connections via a mentor or colleague who may be able to assist them as they assist you.
The agencies are important as well, but here it gets a little murky since some smaller companies have tremendous capabilities in certain niche markets.
The point is to do your homework. Look around, find an agent who fits your personality type (or perhaps complements it, depending on your needs), and ensure they are interested in helping YOU. I've found the best REALTORs (based on buyer feedback) have one thing in common: they make the buyer feel protected, confident, and cared for. And isn't that pretty much what you want from any professional?
Happy house hunting!
Having been in the real estate business for awhile and having worked with several hundred REALTORs, I can say without question there is no "best" REALTOR out there- but there is probably a 'best" REALTOR for you. What I mean is that, just as people decide which car to buy based on their particular needs and likes, so should they select a best REALTOR fit.
You may have noticed I capitalize the word, "REALTOR". I do so for a reason: all REALTORs are real estate agents, but not all agents are REALTORs. A REALTOR is a member of the National Association of REALTORs and must adhere to certain ethical standards and other requirements of the profession; it is an important moniker and one critical in selecting your agent.
So who are the best REALTORs? They come in many forms, from the very experienced to the not-so-experienced, from the high-volume to the one- or two-a-year kind. As with any consultant or professional you hire, you should consider several people, and then check them out with an interview, by recommendation, internet investigation, or a combination of those and other factors. Find out if they are experienced in the area you are looking (some have particular knowledge of certain parts of Louisville), and if not, find out if they have connections via a mentor or colleague who may be able to assist them as they assist you.
The agencies are important as well, but here it gets a little murky since some smaller companies have tremendous capabilities in certain niche markets.
The point is to do your homework. Look around, find an agent who fits your personality type (or perhaps complements it, depending on your needs), and ensure they are interested in helping YOU. I've found the best REALTORs (based on buyer feedback) have one thing in common: they make the buyer feel protected, confident, and cared for. And isn't that pretty much what you want from any professional?
Happy house hunting!
Tuesday, September 4, 2012
Inspecting roofs
Many people want to know how we go about inspecting roofs during a home inspection in Louisville. The information below is a guide and is not all-inclusive, but it should give you an idea of what most home inspectors look at, as well as identifying traditional weak spots in a roof where water intrusion is more likely to occur.
First and foremost, at HomeTeam we ALWAYS walk the roof unless there is some safety issue that would prohibit walking it. For example, if the roof has a steep pitch (slope), or if the roof is wet, snowy, or icy, we will inspect the roof from the eaves at several points or from the ground with the aid of binoculars. In all other cases, if we can get on the roof to look at it, we will. We have found there is no substitute for seeing the roof shingles and penetration points up close.
We take stock of the roof at the gutters and see if we can identify any gutter issues at eye level that may not have been visible from the ground. Do the gutters drain properly? Is there a large amount of aggregate from the roof shingles in the gutters? Do they need to be cleaned? Is it possible to identify any issues with water flow that may impact the fascia or the interior of the home?
Next, we look closely at the shingles. Here we are looking for the degree of curling and wear they exhibit. Curling of the corners occurs over time and with exposure to the elements. Wear is also usually associated simply with age of the shingles, although uneven wear, or wear associated with trees or some other impact are also important to note. Finally, when we are up close with the shingles we look for any signs of direct impact damage such as from a hail event. Other clues or indications of hail are impact points on metal, such as roof vents or gutters. These are often clues that the roof may have been exposed to damage, but they are usually not conclusive.
We look for nail pops and lifted edges next. Again, these are typically signs of age and can usually be repaired fairly inexpensively. Like most maintenance items, you should get these minor repairs accomplished before they turn into major or more expensive repairs.
Valleys are a common weak point, as is flashing. Flashing is a broad term that can apply to the areas around chimneys, the drip edge flashing, the step flashing next to vertical surfaces, and others. Flashing is critical to the health of the roof, and it is sometimes difficult to see due to the construction of the roof.
Roof penetration points are another traditional weak spot. Here I'm referring especially to the plumbing vents on the roof (usually on the rear of the home). These are usually PVC pipe, copper, or even cast iron and should have a "flashing boot collar" that diverts water away and keeps it from entering the home. The flashing boot collars are either synthetic rubber or a lead cover; the rubber types typically last about 8-10 years and then begin to deteriorate, requiring either replacement or repair (caulking). The lead collars should last forever, but for some reason squirrels seem to enjoy nibbling on them, so we often see them requiring repair or replacement after about 15 years or so.
Once you move in to your home, it's a good idea to have a roofer come out every 2-3 years to take a quick look at your roof. They will probably do it free of charge, but paying $75 or so would be a great investment. Considering the extensive damage a roof leak can cause, identifying potential problem areas prior to a big leak is a great investment.
Flat roofs, slate roofs, metal roofs... there are all sorts of variations and differences when inspecting a roof. The above information should give you a general idea of what an inspector is looking for. Remember, it's not a warranty but rather a big picture look to try to identify major deficiencies.
First and foremost, at HomeTeam we ALWAYS walk the roof unless there is some safety issue that would prohibit walking it. For example, if the roof has a steep pitch (slope), or if the roof is wet, snowy, or icy, we will inspect the roof from the eaves at several points or from the ground with the aid of binoculars. In all other cases, if we can get on the roof to look at it, we will. We have found there is no substitute for seeing the roof shingles and penetration points up close.
We take stock of the roof at the gutters and see if we can identify any gutter issues at eye level that may not have been visible from the ground. Do the gutters drain properly? Is there a large amount of aggregate from the roof shingles in the gutters? Do they need to be cleaned? Is it possible to identify any issues with water flow that may impact the fascia or the interior of the home?
Next, we look closely at the shingles. Here we are looking for the degree of curling and wear they exhibit. Curling of the corners occurs over time and with exposure to the elements. Wear is also usually associated simply with age of the shingles, although uneven wear, or wear associated with trees or some other impact are also important to note. Finally, when we are up close with the shingles we look for any signs of direct impact damage such as from a hail event. Other clues or indications of hail are impact points on metal, such as roof vents or gutters. These are often clues that the roof may have been exposed to damage, but they are usually not conclusive.
We look for nail pops and lifted edges next. Again, these are typically signs of age and can usually be repaired fairly inexpensively. Like most maintenance items, you should get these minor repairs accomplished before they turn into major or more expensive repairs.
Valleys are a common weak point, as is flashing. Flashing is a broad term that can apply to the areas around chimneys, the drip edge flashing, the step flashing next to vertical surfaces, and others. Flashing is critical to the health of the roof, and it is sometimes difficult to see due to the construction of the roof.
Roof penetration points are another traditional weak spot. Here I'm referring especially to the plumbing vents on the roof (usually on the rear of the home). These are usually PVC pipe, copper, or even cast iron and should have a "flashing boot collar" that diverts water away and keeps it from entering the home. The flashing boot collars are either synthetic rubber or a lead cover; the rubber types typically last about 8-10 years and then begin to deteriorate, requiring either replacement or repair (caulking). The lead collars should last forever, but for some reason squirrels seem to enjoy nibbling on them, so we often see them requiring repair or replacement after about 15 years or so.
Once you move in to your home, it's a good idea to have a roofer come out every 2-3 years to take a quick look at your roof. They will probably do it free of charge, but paying $75 or so would be a great investment. Considering the extensive damage a roof leak can cause, identifying potential problem areas prior to a big leak is a great investment.
Flat roofs, slate roofs, metal roofs... there are all sorts of variations and differences when inspecting a roof. The above information should give you a general idea of what an inspector is looking for. Remember, it's not a warranty but rather a big picture look to try to identify major deficiencies.
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
What does a home inpsector look for in bathrooms?
One of the most common questions we are asked is along the lines of, "What is it that you check?"
While the answer to the question depends on the particular situation, I want to devote the next several posts to answering broadly but with some details that will hopefully give you insight into our procedures.
We'll start with the bathroom since this is one of the rooms in which many hidden problems can cause major expense if not discovered in a timely manner. We go through the typical pattern in each room: ceiling, cladding, doors and windows, electrical, plumbing, and floor. Each of those broad categories has an almost limitless number of offshoots depending on the situation, but let's take a look closely at each:
Ceiling- we look closely to see if any ceiling stains are present, indicating water intrusion from above (often, first floor bathrooms are directly below second floor bathrooms). We also look to see if the bathroom has a fan, since each full bath should have an operable window or fan to take away the hot, humid air from a shower.
Cladding- are there any signs of water intrusion? any signs (particularly around doors and windows) of settling that may indicate foundation problems? We look carefully around sinks and tubs/showers to ensure they are properly caulked.
Doors/Windows- bathroom windows should be made of tempered glass (see previous post); the window should be operable if no fan is present; the standard window inspection applies here- operation, glass condition, overall condition, water intrusion
Electrical- a bathroom should have only GFI outlets. This includes GFI for a jetted tub, if present. Sometimes it is quite a hunt to locate the jetted tub's GFI (I've seen them accessible only from the kitchen; other times they are actually on a breaker in the main panel; other times they are in the outlet under the tub area; still other times they are on a wall outlet. We're persistent, but if we can't find one, we always recommend one is added. Non-GFI tubs have killed people).
Plumbing- we're looking for leaks or future leaks. We check security of the faucets/handles and the toilet. We flush the toilet 3 times. We will the sink and let it sit full of water to see if any leaks are present under the sink. We run the tub, and then we run the shower with the tub plugged to fill it approx 1 inch with water. We then drain the tub and the sink, looking for proper drainage and any leaks. The tub and sink should also be free of any holes or damage that may lead to internal leakage
Floor- one last look to see if there are any signs of structural issues or any signs of water intrusion
And that, in a nutshell, is it. There can be much more depending on what we see or find, but the whole inspection is something you can do yourself about once a year. Many of the leaks we find are not known to the home owner, and the longer a leak persists the worse the damage can be. So do yourself a favor and pick a day (January 1st works well) to do some of the inspections, and you may end up saving yourself a ton of money and headache.
While the answer to the question depends on the particular situation, I want to devote the next several posts to answering broadly but with some details that will hopefully give you insight into our procedures.
We'll start with the bathroom since this is one of the rooms in which many hidden problems can cause major expense if not discovered in a timely manner. We go through the typical pattern in each room: ceiling, cladding, doors and windows, electrical, plumbing, and floor. Each of those broad categories has an almost limitless number of offshoots depending on the situation, but let's take a look closely at each:
Ceiling- we look closely to see if any ceiling stains are present, indicating water intrusion from above (often, first floor bathrooms are directly below second floor bathrooms). We also look to see if the bathroom has a fan, since each full bath should have an operable window or fan to take away the hot, humid air from a shower.
Cladding- are there any signs of water intrusion? any signs (particularly around doors and windows) of settling that may indicate foundation problems? We look carefully around sinks and tubs/showers to ensure they are properly caulked.
Doors/Windows- bathroom windows should be made of tempered glass (see previous post); the window should be operable if no fan is present; the standard window inspection applies here- operation, glass condition, overall condition, water intrusion
Electrical- a bathroom should have only GFI outlets. This includes GFI for a jetted tub, if present. Sometimes it is quite a hunt to locate the jetted tub's GFI (I've seen them accessible only from the kitchen; other times they are actually on a breaker in the main panel; other times they are in the outlet under the tub area; still other times they are on a wall outlet. We're persistent, but if we can't find one, we always recommend one is added. Non-GFI tubs have killed people).
Plumbing- we're looking for leaks or future leaks. We check security of the faucets/handles and the toilet. We flush the toilet 3 times. We will the sink and let it sit full of water to see if any leaks are present under the sink. We run the tub, and then we run the shower with the tub plugged to fill it approx 1 inch with water. We then drain the tub and the sink, looking for proper drainage and any leaks. The tub and sink should also be free of any holes or damage that may lead to internal leakage
Floor- one last look to see if there are any signs of structural issues or any signs of water intrusion
And that, in a nutshell, is it. There can be much more depending on what we see or find, but the whole inspection is something you can do yourself about once a year. Many of the leaks we find are not known to the home owner, and the longer a leak persists the worse the damage can be. So do yourself a favor and pick a day (January 1st works well) to do some of the inspections, and you may end up saving yourself a ton of money and headache.
Thursday, May 3, 2012
HUD, foreclosure, and vacant homes
I've had several people ask if they should have a foreclosure home inspected. After all, they say, the seller will not pay for any repairs, so what's the point in getting a home inspection?
The point, of course, is to have a good idea of what you are getting yourself into! The fairly recent development of the market in which sellers pay for or correct deficiencies identified in the home inspection should not be the main reason a buyer gets an inspection. Yes, the inspection generally pays for itself several times over, but you can also look at it another way: spending a few hundred dollars can save you thousands of dollars (and lots of headache and stress) by uncovering some serious issues with the home.
In Louisville we've seen a pretty steady rate of HUD and foreclosure homes. It's not nearly as bad as the nation at large, but it's a significant number. Many of these homes are bought by investors seeking a good deal, but quite often they are bought by people who are looking for an entry-level home they will put some work into and improve over the years.
I will lump "vacant" homes in this same category, although foreclosures/HUDs are usually in much worse states due to neglect. However, a home that has been vacant for a substantial amount of time, particularly an older home, is prime for some of the following potential problems:
- plumbing leaks. When the plumbing is not used on a regular basis, drain lines dry out. Once you get back in the home and start using the plumbing, dried sediment can come loose and clog the lines. With PVC, joints can dry out and begin leaking. With supply lines, weak points that did not leak previously can begin to weep or leak. The point is this: be prepared for some leaks and/or clogs when you move into a home that has been vacant for an extended period. This is especially true of older homes. The home inspector will run lots of water in an attempt to identify any active leaks, but the fact is that some of those issues simply won't be present until the plumbing is used on a frequent basis.
- heating and air conditioning problems. This is usually a more long-term impact and stems from a system not being maintained. Always, always, always (here, I stamp my foot) get the system cleaned and serviced. More than likely the filter has not been changed regularly, and small issues like replacing a capacitor that is out of tolerance (costs less than $200) can save you from replacing a blower motor and even an entire system (several thousand dollars).
- roofs. It's an oddity to me, but homes that are vacant seem to have more roofing leaks than lived-in homes. Always keep an eye on the ceiling for even a remote sign of a stain, and get it corrected immediately. The home inspection should be able to identify any staining present at the time of the inspection, and DO NOT let those items slide.
In summary, you can save yourself quite a bit of money by getting a good home inspection, whether it is on a HUD, foreclosure, or vacant property. HomeTeam is the only company in Louisville to bring a team, including a licensed heating and air conditioning company, to each inspection. That saves you hassle, headache, and money in the long run.
The point, of course, is to have a good idea of what you are getting yourself into! The fairly recent development of the market in which sellers pay for or correct deficiencies identified in the home inspection should not be the main reason a buyer gets an inspection. Yes, the inspection generally pays for itself several times over, but you can also look at it another way: spending a few hundred dollars can save you thousands of dollars (and lots of headache and stress) by uncovering some serious issues with the home.
In Louisville we've seen a pretty steady rate of HUD and foreclosure homes. It's not nearly as bad as the nation at large, but it's a significant number. Many of these homes are bought by investors seeking a good deal, but quite often they are bought by people who are looking for an entry-level home they will put some work into and improve over the years.
I will lump "vacant" homes in this same category, although foreclosures/HUDs are usually in much worse states due to neglect. However, a home that has been vacant for a substantial amount of time, particularly an older home, is prime for some of the following potential problems:
- plumbing leaks. When the plumbing is not used on a regular basis, drain lines dry out. Once you get back in the home and start using the plumbing, dried sediment can come loose and clog the lines. With PVC, joints can dry out and begin leaking. With supply lines, weak points that did not leak previously can begin to weep or leak. The point is this: be prepared for some leaks and/or clogs when you move into a home that has been vacant for an extended period. This is especially true of older homes. The home inspector will run lots of water in an attempt to identify any active leaks, but the fact is that some of those issues simply won't be present until the plumbing is used on a frequent basis.
- heating and air conditioning problems. This is usually a more long-term impact and stems from a system not being maintained. Always, always, always (here, I stamp my foot) get the system cleaned and serviced. More than likely the filter has not been changed regularly, and small issues like replacing a capacitor that is out of tolerance (costs less than $200) can save you from replacing a blower motor and even an entire system (several thousand dollars).
- roofs. It's an oddity to me, but homes that are vacant seem to have more roofing leaks than lived-in homes. Always keep an eye on the ceiling for even a remote sign of a stain, and get it corrected immediately. The home inspection should be able to identify any staining present at the time of the inspection, and DO NOT let those items slide.
In summary, you can save yourself quite a bit of money by getting a good home inspection, whether it is on a HUD, foreclosure, or vacant property. HomeTeam is the only company in Louisville to bring a team, including a licensed heating and air conditioning company, to each inspection. That saves you hassle, headache, and money in the long run.
Monday, March 19, 2012
Tempered Glass- Louisville Home Inspection
Today we'll take a look at a subject that is often overlooked by many homebuyers, and that is glass safety. In particular, we'll take a look via some videos at tempered glass and one area in which a film covering serves a similar purpose.
So what is tempered glass, and where should it be? I'm glad you asked. If you're as old as I am or older, you remember (old) automobile windshields that would crack and shatter and become a tremendous hazard to the occupants. Car windshields were "tempered" with a process that essentially changes the properties from shattering to cracking but staying in one piece. It's an addition of a plastic that allows the transformation, and it's been quite helpful in keeping rock strikes from becoming disastrous events while traveling at 70 mph on the highway.
Windows in houses began to get some of the same treatment a few decades ago, although building codes have not mandated the changes until the last 10-20 years or so, and the process is a little different. Tempered glass for domestic use is heated and then cooled very rapidly, making it approximately 4 times harder than normal glass. The new properties cause it to "dice" into tiny pieces rather than in long, dangerous daggers of glass.
Local building codes vary, so I will speak in broad generalities here. Recall that a home inspection is not a code inspection, but we do look for safety items, and in my company this is something we look for.
Generally, we look for tempered glass to be in any bathroom areas (you don't want shattered glass around when you are naked and with slippery floors; this is a no-brainer) or in areas where somebody might fall into a big window. That's it. For parameters, we generally consider high risk areas as being near walkways (within 3 ft or so), a window that is over 9 square feet in area, and one which is close to the ground (less than 18 inches). Also, doors should have tempered glass (think "slam").
So how do you know if the window you're looking at has tempered glass? It is required to have an etching near the base with all sorts of info on it. Basically, if the glass is etched, you're probably OK.
If you have an older home or a home that does not have tempered glass in areas you think should, you can alternatively add a film to the window. The film can be decorative, tinted, clear, whatever- the point is to help prevent the window from shattering into jagged shards and hurting somebody.
Check out the vids below for more information.
And as always, contact the professionals at HomeTeam Inspection for all of your home inspection needs in Louisville and southern Indiana.
So what is tempered glass, and where should it be? I'm glad you asked. If you're as old as I am or older, you remember (old) automobile windshields that would crack and shatter and become a tremendous hazard to the occupants. Car windshields were "tempered" with a process that essentially changes the properties from shattering to cracking but staying in one piece. It's an addition of a plastic that allows the transformation, and it's been quite helpful in keeping rock strikes from becoming disastrous events while traveling at 70 mph on the highway.
Windows in houses began to get some of the same treatment a few decades ago, although building codes have not mandated the changes until the last 10-20 years or so, and the process is a little different. Tempered glass for domestic use is heated and then cooled very rapidly, making it approximately 4 times harder than normal glass. The new properties cause it to "dice" into tiny pieces rather than in long, dangerous daggers of glass.
Local building codes vary, so I will speak in broad generalities here. Recall that a home inspection is not a code inspection, but we do look for safety items, and in my company this is something we look for.
Generally, we look for tempered glass to be in any bathroom areas (you don't want shattered glass around when you are naked and with slippery floors; this is a no-brainer) or in areas where somebody might fall into a big window. That's it. For parameters, we generally consider high risk areas as being near walkways (within 3 ft or so), a window that is over 9 square feet in area, and one which is close to the ground (less than 18 inches). Also, doors should have tempered glass (think "slam").
So how do you know if the window you're looking at has tempered glass? It is required to have an etching near the base with all sorts of info on it. Basically, if the glass is etched, you're probably OK.
If you have an older home or a home that does not have tempered glass in areas you think should, you can alternatively add a film to the window. The film can be decorative, tinted, clear, whatever- the point is to help prevent the window from shattering into jagged shards and hurting somebody.
Check out the vids below for more information.
And as always, contact the professionals at HomeTeam Inspection for all of your home inspection needs in Louisville and southern Indiana.
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Fireplaces
Ah, the hearth. Picture yourself in front of a blazing fire on a snowy winter night, safe and warm, snuggled up with a nice book, relaxed, without a care in the world.
And so you should. When we light a fire in a fireplace, we expect it to remain, well, IN the fireplace. Chimney fires and other disastrous consequences of poor fireplace maintenance can cost tens of thousands of dollars, the loss of a home, or worse, the loss of life.
So what do you as a homebuyer need to know about a fireplace when you are looking for a new home? Most people want to know if the fireplace is gas or wood, and if gas, can it be converted to wood (and vice versa). A couple of inspections lately have shown a general misunderstanding of assumptions, so I want to address a few issues.
First, a fireplace designed to burn wood can be converted to gas. Usually this is done with a full set of gas logs, and the fireplace no longer continues to burn wood. This conversion should be done by a professional (often a plumber) and is usually not a problem. A variation on this theme is the wood fireplace with a gas "starter". Again, this is usually not a problem, although if not done properly difficulties and hazards can arise from have an extremely hot wood fire in contact with a gas line. You get the picture.
The most common question we get, however, is with newer homes that have gas insert fireplaces (with a flue), when people want to know if the fireplace can be converted to burning wood. I defer to fireplace experts and chimney sweeps for answers to specific fireplaces, but in general here are a few guidelines:
- if the damper is 6", the fireplace was designed for gas-only
- if the damper is 8" or more, the fireplace MAY be able to accommodate either wood or gas
- check with the specs for that particular model
A very common defect we find in home inspections in Louisville is cracks in the firebox, either in the mortar or in the brick itself. The cracks are often the result of moisture that has penetrated from the top of the chimney (usually the wash is cracked, or the flue lacks a rain cap), and those issues also need to be addressed. However, the cracks can have serious consequences if not corrected.
Similarly, we often find chimneys that have never been cleaned and have thick layers of creosote buildup. This residue can actually ignite, causing a chimney fire that can quickly get out of control, so on every home inspection we recommend any existing chimneys (for wood fireplaces) be professionally cleaned (to take care of the creosote) and THEN inspected by a chimney sweep (since only after a cleaning will smaller fissures and defects be visible.
So there you have it. Now you can enjoy the fireplace with complete peace of mind!
And so you should. When we light a fire in a fireplace, we expect it to remain, well, IN the fireplace. Chimney fires and other disastrous consequences of poor fireplace maintenance can cost tens of thousands of dollars, the loss of a home, or worse, the loss of life.
So what do you as a homebuyer need to know about a fireplace when you are looking for a new home? Most people want to know if the fireplace is gas or wood, and if gas, can it be converted to wood (and vice versa). A couple of inspections lately have shown a general misunderstanding of assumptions, so I want to address a few issues.
First, a fireplace designed to burn wood can be converted to gas. Usually this is done with a full set of gas logs, and the fireplace no longer continues to burn wood. This conversion should be done by a professional (often a plumber) and is usually not a problem. A variation on this theme is the wood fireplace with a gas "starter". Again, this is usually not a problem, although if not done properly difficulties and hazards can arise from have an extremely hot wood fire in contact with a gas line. You get the picture.
The most common question we get, however, is with newer homes that have gas insert fireplaces (with a flue), when people want to know if the fireplace can be converted to burning wood. I defer to fireplace experts and chimney sweeps for answers to specific fireplaces, but in general here are a few guidelines:
- if the damper is 6", the fireplace was designed for gas-only
- if the damper is 8" or more, the fireplace MAY be able to accommodate either wood or gas
- check with the specs for that particular model
A very common defect we find in home inspections in Louisville is cracks in the firebox, either in the mortar or in the brick itself. The cracks are often the result of moisture that has penetrated from the top of the chimney (usually the wash is cracked, or the flue lacks a rain cap), and those issues also need to be addressed. However, the cracks can have serious consequences if not corrected.
Similarly, we often find chimneys that have never been cleaned and have thick layers of creosote buildup. This residue can actually ignite, causing a chimney fire that can quickly get out of control, so on every home inspection we recommend any existing chimneys (for wood fireplaces) be professionally cleaned (to take care of the creosote) and THEN inspected by a chimney sweep (since only after a cleaning will smaller fissures and defects be visible.
So there you have it. Now you can enjoy the fireplace with complete peace of mind!
Thursday, February 9, 2012
Old Houses- lath and plaster
This week we'll take a brief look at lath and plaster walls and ceilings. These are typically found in older homes, whereas in newer homes the walls are covered with drywall. Most people are familiar with drywall- it comes in sheets (sometimes referred to as sheetrock), and it is nailed or screwed to the wood studs on the interior of the home. The seams are then taped and "mudded" (plastered) to produce a smooth, seamless wall. OK- that's the modern construction method. What about that older home you're interested in buying?
The old technique is called "lath and plaster", and you've probably seen the backside of walls in older homes and have some idea of the technique. The walls have wood studs (vertical), and then have thin wood strips (lath) going horizontally. These wood slats have gaps between them, and when the initial, or key, coat of plaster is applied, it smooshes in to fill the gaps (see video). Once this sets, it forms a key that anchors the coat of plaster to the wall, and then a finishing coat of plaster is applied.
What you need to know about lath and plaster walls is that they tend to develop cracks over time. These are age-related and can be exacerbated by high heat, excessive moisture, and other factors. Cracking of the exterior coat is usually not a cause for concern since it is most often cosmetic. The trouble comes in when the key coat begins to break down. You'll usually notice problems on ceilings first, since gravity is trying to pull the key coat down. Repair of the key coat is obviously a bit more involved and more expensive, but several companies in Louisville perform that service and can get your walls back to looking like new.
One thing to keep in mind: older homes require a different type of care from what a newer home requires. When you buy an older home, perhaps in the Highlands or Germantown, go in with the understanding that part of your ownership experience is really bound up in stewardship. As with owning a classic automobile, owning an older home provides a certain level of pride and satisfaction that you are in effect carrying the torch for awhile. Stay on top of maintenance, and when things require repair, go with a professional. It will cost more money in the short term but will likely save you money in the long run, and oh, what a difference in enjoyment of your home.
Contact us at HomeTeam (www.HTLouisville.com) if you need an inspection of an older home, or if you just want to talk about old houses.
The old technique is called "lath and plaster", and you've probably seen the backside of walls in older homes and have some idea of the technique. The walls have wood studs (vertical), and then have thin wood strips (lath) going horizontally. These wood slats have gaps between them, and when the initial, or key, coat of plaster is applied, it smooshes in to fill the gaps (see video). Once this sets, it forms a key that anchors the coat of plaster to the wall, and then a finishing coat of plaster is applied.
What you need to know about lath and plaster walls is that they tend to develop cracks over time. These are age-related and can be exacerbated by high heat, excessive moisture, and other factors. Cracking of the exterior coat is usually not a cause for concern since it is most often cosmetic. The trouble comes in when the key coat begins to break down. You'll usually notice problems on ceilings first, since gravity is trying to pull the key coat down. Repair of the key coat is obviously a bit more involved and more expensive, but several companies in Louisville perform that service and can get your walls back to looking like new.
One thing to keep in mind: older homes require a different type of care from what a newer home requires. When you buy an older home, perhaps in the Highlands or Germantown, go in with the understanding that part of your ownership experience is really bound up in stewardship. As with owning a classic automobile, owning an older home provides a certain level of pride and satisfaction that you are in effect carrying the torch for awhile. Stay on top of maintenance, and when things require repair, go with a professional. It will cost more money in the short term but will likely save you money in the long run, and oh, what a difference in enjoyment of your home.
Contact us at HomeTeam (www.HTLouisville.com) if you need an inspection of an older home, or if you just want to talk about old houses.
Friday, January 27, 2012
Heating and Air Conditioning inspection
One of the benefits of using HomeTeam is our high level of service to the buyer, and part of that includes having your heating and air conditioning system inspected by a licensed HVAC technician. A typical home inspection in Louisville includes some very basic tests of the system, but we go much, much farther than that. From typical standards of practice, here are the basics:
9.0 SYSTEM: HEATING
9.1 The inspector shall observe:
A. Permanently installed heating systems including:
1. heating equipment
2. normal operating controls
3. automatic safety controls
4. chimneys, flues, and vents
5. solid fuel heating devices
6. heat distribution systems including fans, pumps, ducts and piping, with supports,
dampers, insulation, air filters, registers, radiators, fan-coil units, convectors
7. the presence of an installed heat source in each room
9.2 The inspector shall:
A. describe:
1. energy source
2. heating equipment and distribution type
B. operate the systems using normal operating controls
C. open readily openable access panels provided by the manufacturer or installer for routine homeowner maintenance
9.3 The inspector is NOT required to:
A. operate heating systems when weather conditions or other circumstances may cause equipment damage
B. operate automatic safety controls.
C. ignite or extinguish solid fuel fires.
D. observe:
1. the interior of flues
2. fireplace insert flue connections
3. humidifiers
4. electronic air filters
5. the uniformity or adequacy of heat supply to the various rooms
10.0 SYSTEM: CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING
10.1 The inspector shall observe:
A. Central Air Conditioning including:
1. cooling and air handling equipment
2. normal operating controls
B. distribution systems including:
1. fans, pumps, ducts and piping, with supports, dampers, insulation, air filters, registers
and fan-coil units
2. the presence of an installed cooling source in each room
10.2 The inspector shall:
A. describe:
1. energy sources.
2. cooling equipment type.
B. operate the systems using normal operating controls.
C. open readily openable access panels provided by the manufacturer or installer for routine homeowner maintenance
10.3 The inspector is NOT required to:
A. operate cooling systems when weather conditions or other circumstances may cause equipment damage.
B. observe non-central air conditioners
C. observe the uniformity or adequacy of cool-air supply to the various rooms
In a nutshell, this is a very topical look at your HVAC system. We do all of this, of course, and much, much more. And remember that most home warranties require you to have a licensed HVAC tech inspect your system anyway, so why not kill two birds with one stone and have us bring him with us?
Next week: plumbing
9.0 SYSTEM: HEATING
9.1 The inspector shall observe:
A. Permanently installed heating systems including:
1. heating equipment
2. normal operating controls
3. automatic safety controls
4. chimneys, flues, and vents
5. solid fuel heating devices
6. heat distribution systems including fans, pumps, ducts and piping, with supports,
dampers, insulation, air filters, registers, radiators, fan-coil units, convectors
7. the presence of an installed heat source in each room
9.2 The inspector shall:
A. describe:
1. energy source
2. heating equipment and distribution type
B. operate the systems using normal operating controls
C. open readily openable access panels provided by the manufacturer or installer for routine homeowner maintenance
9.3 The inspector is NOT required to:
A. operate heating systems when weather conditions or other circumstances may cause equipment damage
B. operate automatic safety controls.
C. ignite or extinguish solid fuel fires.
D. observe:
1. the interior of flues
2. fireplace insert flue connections
3. humidifiers
4. electronic air filters
5. the uniformity or adequacy of heat supply to the various rooms
10.0 SYSTEM: CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING
10.1 The inspector shall observe:
A. Central Air Conditioning including:
1. cooling and air handling equipment
2. normal operating controls
B. distribution systems including:
1. fans, pumps, ducts and piping, with supports, dampers, insulation, air filters, registers
and fan-coil units
2. the presence of an installed cooling source in each room
10.2 The inspector shall:
A. describe:
1. energy sources.
2. cooling equipment type.
B. operate the systems using normal operating controls.
C. open readily openable access panels provided by the manufacturer or installer for routine homeowner maintenance
10.3 The inspector is NOT required to:
A. operate cooling systems when weather conditions or other circumstances may cause equipment damage.
B. observe non-central air conditioners
C. observe the uniformity or adequacy of cool-air supply to the various rooms
In a nutshell, this is a very topical look at your HVAC system. We do all of this, of course, and much, much more. And remember that most home warranties require you to have a licensed HVAC tech inspect your system anyway, so why not kill two birds with one stone and have us bring him with us?
Next week: plumbing
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Radon mitigation
I've spoken of the high radon levels in Louisville before, but I wanted to give you an idea of how easy it is to mitigate the risk. As a reminder, radon gas is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the US according to the EPA (next to smoking), and the really good news is that it is very simple to keep the radon levels in the home below the recommended mitigation threshold of 4.0 pico Curies per liter (pCi/L).
The system is basically a PVC pipe stuck in the slab of the home on the lowest level that vents to the outside of the home. A fan housing is attached and runs 24/7, putting a slight negative pressure under the foundation of the home. That small pressure differential is enough to lower the radon levels significantly. In fact, we have tested many homes for radon that had an operational radon system in place, and I've never seen a radon level above 4.0 in any of those homes. Check out the video for more.
The system is basically a PVC pipe stuck in the slab of the home on the lowest level that vents to the outside of the home. A fan housing is attached and runs 24/7, putting a slight negative pressure under the foundation of the home. That small pressure differential is enough to lower the radon levels significantly. In fact, we have tested many homes for radon that had an operational radon system in place, and I've never seen a radon level above 4.0 in any of those homes. Check out the video for more.
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Why Get an Energy Audit?
Having lived in several parts of the country and around the world during my Air Force career, it has been a little strange to see how we in Louisville treat the topic of energy usage. Perhaps it is the coal the Commonwealth of Kentucky produces. Perhaps it is the climate, which is not too cold in winter and not too hot in summer. Or perhaps it is simply that the economy right now is in such a state that people have other things on their minds. Whatever the case, I'd like to draw your attention to a couple of startling facts:
- our electricity costs, which continue to be far lower than the average throughout the country, are climbing. Electricity is measured and billed in kilowatts per hour (kw-hr), and a quick comparison of your recent bill to that of the same time last year shows a jump of about 16% in just one year. That's significant.
- new coal plants are simply not being built. As much as I love coal and the cheap energy it produces, coal has a bad name in much of the rest of the country.
- and if you thought coal had a bad name, think about the last time a nuclear power plant was built. None are on the horizon, and some currently in operation will be shutting down as they approach the end of their useful lives.
Which leads me to the unmistakable conclusion that ENERGY PRICES WILL NECESSARILY SKYROCKET. If that sounds familiar, that's because those are the words of then-Candidate Obama, who reached the same conclusion.
There are a few things you can do to combat this inevitability. The first is to produce your own energy, and the most popular forms of that production are wind, solar, or micro-hydro. Unfortunately, as I have studied the historical meteorological data, Kentucky is not great for wind (it's just not windy enough to be cost-effective), and the solar data is similarly discouraging. There may come a time when those methods are indeed cost-effective, but it will likely be because the cost of traditional electricity production has become so very expensive.
WHAT'S A GIRL TO DO?
There are two sides to the energy equation, of course: production and consumption. As a general rule of thumb, every dollar one spends in energy efficiencies (in the form of insulation, better lighting, or more efficient equipment) produces the same net gain of spending 3 dollars in production. So my money is on efficiencies. Not quite as sexy as solar panels, but much, much more cost effective.
An energy audit will help identify ways you can save money on your energy consumption. The focus is on lighting, heating and cooling, insulation, windows, water heaters, and appliances.
Next week I'll fill you in on some nice-to-know numbers and some things you can do before an energy audit. I'll also discuss what we typically find in an energy audit here in Louisville, Kentucky.
- our electricity costs, which continue to be far lower than the average throughout the country, are climbing. Electricity is measured and billed in kilowatts per hour (kw-hr), and a quick comparison of your recent bill to that of the same time last year shows a jump of about 16% in just one year. That's significant.
- new coal plants are simply not being built. As much as I love coal and the cheap energy it produces, coal has a bad name in much of the rest of the country.
- and if you thought coal had a bad name, think about the last time a nuclear power plant was built. None are on the horizon, and some currently in operation will be shutting down as they approach the end of their useful lives.
Which leads me to the unmistakable conclusion that ENERGY PRICES WILL NECESSARILY SKYROCKET. If that sounds familiar, that's because those are the words of then-Candidate Obama, who reached the same conclusion.
There are a few things you can do to combat this inevitability. The first is to produce your own energy, and the most popular forms of that production are wind, solar, or micro-hydro. Unfortunately, as I have studied the historical meteorological data, Kentucky is not great for wind (it's just not windy enough to be cost-effective), and the solar data is similarly discouraging. There may come a time when those methods are indeed cost-effective, but it will likely be because the cost of traditional electricity production has become so very expensive.
WHAT'S A GIRL TO DO?
There are two sides to the energy equation, of course: production and consumption. As a general rule of thumb, every dollar one spends in energy efficiencies (in the form of insulation, better lighting, or more efficient equipment) produces the same net gain of spending 3 dollars in production. So my money is on efficiencies. Not quite as sexy as solar panels, but much, much more cost effective.
An energy audit will help identify ways you can save money on your energy consumption. The focus is on lighting, heating and cooling, insulation, windows, water heaters, and appliances.
Next week I'll fill you in on some nice-to-know numbers and some things you can do before an energy audit. I'll also discuss what we typically find in an energy audit here in Louisville, Kentucky.
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Is this house up to code?
Thanks for asking! This is a very common misconception about home inspections. In fact, I have had highly experienced realtors ask me this question (they had formerly used other inspection companies), and it always makes me wonder what other inspectors are saying in the walkthrough.
The easy answer is, "No, this house is almost certainly not up to code." And we can say that with a fair degree of certainty since code changes quickly, and "code" can apply to plumbing, electrical, structural, and other aspects of the home.
Here is the bottom line: a home inspection is not designed to be, nor should it be misconstrued as, a code inspection. Home inspections are much more broad, and frankly if there were some law that required a home to be brought up to the current codes prior to sale, the expense of doing so would be so overwhelming that most sellers would probably reconsider and would not sell their homes after all.
From the Kentucky statute:
KRS 198b.738 states that home inspectors are prohibited from indicating compliance or non-compliance with building code
Did you catch that? The statute is not silent and does not even give an inspector leeway in deciding whether he wants to go farther than the scope of the inspection. It prohibits him from doing so.
Fortunately for the consumer, many items that may be of concern are also included in the "safety" realm. For example, some amateur wiring may be pointed out as a deficiency in the home inspection due to safety concerns, but the inspector should not address it as a code violation; he is not licensed to due so and is expressly prohibited from doing so.
Most good home inspectors in Louisville know the rules, and the better ones make sure their clients also understand them. One of the most important things for the inspector to do is to communicate to the client not only the scope of the inspection but also what it is not. At HomeTeam we always take time during the walkthrough to make sure the client understands the home inspection is not a code inspection. Clear understanding builds trust, and we are in the business of trust.
Next week: energy audits, and why you should get one.
The easy answer is, "No, this house is almost certainly not up to code." And we can say that with a fair degree of certainty since code changes quickly, and "code" can apply to plumbing, electrical, structural, and other aspects of the home.
Here is the bottom line: a home inspection is not designed to be, nor should it be misconstrued as, a code inspection. Home inspections are much more broad, and frankly if there were some law that required a home to be brought up to the current codes prior to sale, the expense of doing so would be so overwhelming that most sellers would probably reconsider and would not sell their homes after all.
From the Kentucky statute:
KRS 198b.738 states that home inspectors are prohibited from indicating compliance or non-compliance with building code
Did you catch that? The statute is not silent and does not even give an inspector leeway in deciding whether he wants to go farther than the scope of the inspection. It prohibits him from doing so.
Fortunately for the consumer, many items that may be of concern are also included in the "safety" realm. For example, some amateur wiring may be pointed out as a deficiency in the home inspection due to safety concerns, but the inspector should not address it as a code violation; he is not licensed to due so and is expressly prohibited from doing so.
Most good home inspectors in Louisville know the rules, and the better ones make sure their clients also understand them. One of the most important things for the inspector to do is to communicate to the client not only the scope of the inspection but also what it is not. At HomeTeam we always take time during the walkthrough to make sure the client understands the home inspection is not a code inspection. Clear understanding builds trust, and we are in the business of trust.
Next week: energy audits, and why you should get one.
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
What is a sillplate anyway?
Perhaps you have heard the term, "sillplate" and have imagined an unusual steel structure that somehow holds the house together. Or perhaps you have heard of the elusive, "sealplate", a southern adaptation of the sillplate, and imagined a plate that somehow seals the foundation. Whatever you have imagined, it is almost certainly more mysterious than the sillplate reality.
A sillplate is simply the wood base that the frame of the home sits upon. It is usually just a 2x4 on its side resting atop the concrete foundation, and the 2x4 runs around the entire perimeter of the foundation. On top of it is the wood framing for the exterior walls of the home. That's it. Nothing mysterious or crazy, and really not much of interest unless there are problems with the sillplate.
Common sillplate problems
In Louisville, the most common sillplate problems involve rotten or deteriorated wood. It is easy to see the consequences of the enormous weight of the home (much of which is resting on the sillplate) pressing down into soft wood. The result is a structural problem that gradually worsens over time.
Several factors can contribute to sillplate damage, and among the top two are insect (termite) damage and water intrusion. We see both during home inspections, and a good termite inspection is obviously important in helping to identify issues in that realm. The moisture issues usually take the form of persistent leakage leading to softness or rotten wood, and although this indication may occur anywhere, it is most prevalent near concrete steps or attachment points. Often, due to settling the concrete steps will pull away from the home slightly leaving a gap that water can enter during rainstorms. Over time, persistent water intrusion affects the wood, and voila- damaged sillplate.
The same issues are possible in crawlspaces and basements, but we find damage more frequently in crawlspaces, often due to other moisture-related problems. As we commonly tell our clients, moisture and water intrusion are the enemies of your home. ALWAYS take appropriate steps to eliminate or reduce their effects.
The good news: sillplate damage is so common that several professional companies have the expertise to correct it. The fix is straightforward: the old sillplate is removed, and a new piece of wood is inserted. This may involve using small jacks to raise the floor joists and bandboard ever-so-slightly in order to insert the new sillplate, but the process is not rocket science and usually is not terribly expensive.
For those homeowners who are in the process of getting a home inspection, take a moment to go down to the basement and have a look around. Grab a flashlight to help you, and pay particular attention to the areas near the concrete steps. If you have a crawlspace you should do the same thing, although it may be a little more difficult. And feel free to give us a call at HomeTeam at 502-357-0813 if we can be of assistance.
Next week- is this house up to code?
A sillplate is simply the wood base that the frame of the home sits upon. It is usually just a 2x4 on its side resting atop the concrete foundation, and the 2x4 runs around the entire perimeter of the foundation. On top of it is the wood framing for the exterior walls of the home. That's it. Nothing mysterious or crazy, and really not much of interest unless there are problems with the sillplate.
Common sillplate problems
In Louisville, the most common sillplate problems involve rotten or deteriorated wood. It is easy to see the consequences of the enormous weight of the home (much of which is resting on the sillplate) pressing down into soft wood. The result is a structural problem that gradually worsens over time.
Several factors can contribute to sillplate damage, and among the top two are insect (termite) damage and water intrusion. We see both during home inspections, and a good termite inspection is obviously important in helping to identify issues in that realm. The moisture issues usually take the form of persistent leakage leading to softness or rotten wood, and although this indication may occur anywhere, it is most prevalent near concrete steps or attachment points. Often, due to settling the concrete steps will pull away from the home slightly leaving a gap that water can enter during rainstorms. Over time, persistent water intrusion affects the wood, and voila- damaged sillplate.
The same issues are possible in crawlspaces and basements, but we find damage more frequently in crawlspaces, often due to other moisture-related problems. As we commonly tell our clients, moisture and water intrusion are the enemies of your home. ALWAYS take appropriate steps to eliminate or reduce their effects.
The good news: sillplate damage is so common that several professional companies have the expertise to correct it. The fix is straightforward: the old sillplate is removed, and a new piece of wood is inserted. This may involve using small jacks to raise the floor joists and bandboard ever-so-slightly in order to insert the new sillplate, but the process is not rocket science and usually is not terribly expensive.
For those homeowners who are in the process of getting a home inspection, take a moment to go down to the basement and have a look around. Grab a flashlight to help you, and pay particular attention to the areas near the concrete steps. If you have a crawlspace you should do the same thing, although it may be a little more difficult. And feel free to give us a call at HomeTeam at 502-357-0813 if we can be of assistance.
Next week- is this house up to code?
Thursday, April 28, 2011
A little bit about Brian O'Rear and HomeTeam Inspection Service
I wanted to take a moment to introduce myself a bit. I bought the Louisville home inspection franchise about two years ago and have grown it into a thriving business in a very short time. The main reason we have been successful is our team concept.
You know a bit about the team: rather than one generalist at a home inspection, you get a team of experts including a Master Inspector, a Systems Analyst, and a licensed heating and air conditioning technician. The team fills a need, and that is for a thorough, professional look at a home. Several other companies in Louisville offer good home inspections, but our approach is superior because of the layers of backup. Let me explain.
Two days ago we were in a house that was in pretty good shape. As I was finishing up my primary duties, I went through the home room by room and cross-checked what the Systems Analyst had viewed. I spotted a water stain he had not picked up. Together we investigated and pinpointed the source of the problem. Later that same day he pointed out an item I had missed. Backup is a wonderful thing!
For every home inspection we check approximately 400 items. Having two sets of eyes (or sometimes 3) can save a lot of trouble for the buyer. Although we try, nobody is perfect, and that backup look has been critical on more inspections than I can count.
I come from a military background. I am a retired Colonel and flew the B-2 Stealth Bomber for a very long time. Teamwork, discipline, professionalism- those words mean a lot to me, and they are synonymous with the level of service you can expect from my company.
I figure if the country can trust me with a $2 billion dollar airplane, you can trust my company to inspect your home.
Next week: what is a sill plate anyway?
You know a bit about the team: rather than one generalist at a home inspection, you get a team of experts including a Master Inspector, a Systems Analyst, and a licensed heating and air conditioning technician. The team fills a need, and that is for a thorough, professional look at a home. Several other companies in Louisville offer good home inspections, but our approach is superior because of the layers of backup. Let me explain.
Two days ago we were in a house that was in pretty good shape. As I was finishing up my primary duties, I went through the home room by room and cross-checked what the Systems Analyst had viewed. I spotted a water stain he had not picked up. Together we investigated and pinpointed the source of the problem. Later that same day he pointed out an item I had missed. Backup is a wonderful thing!
For every home inspection we check approximately 400 items. Having two sets of eyes (or sometimes 3) can save a lot of trouble for the buyer. Although we try, nobody is perfect, and that backup look has been critical on more inspections than I can count.
I come from a military background. I am a retired Colonel and flew the B-2 Stealth Bomber for a very long time. Teamwork, discipline, professionalism- those words mean a lot to me, and they are synonymous with the level of service you can expect from my company.
I figure if the country can trust me with a $2 billion dollar airplane, you can trust my company to inspect your home.
Next week: what is a sill plate anyway?
Monday, April 4, 2011
Basement leak, Louisville
First, the good news: it doesn't rain monsoon rains in Louisville very often. The bad news: when it does, it's usually after it has been incredibly dry for a very long time. The result can leave hapless homeowners (with basements) feeling a little like the folks who weren't able to make it aboard with Noah. Not much you can do once it starts to rain! The time to prepare is now.
The fact is that basements are not waterproof unless made so by a waterproofing company. True, when a home is first constructed (nowadays), several measures are put in place to reduce the likelihood of water intrusion in the basement. However, over time basements develop small cracks, and if the surrounding earth becomes saturated with water, that water has a way of seeping in to your basement.
So the first step is to determine if you really even care. If your basement is not finished, is a little water acceptable? If it is, you're finished here and can skip the rest of the blog. If not, you have a couple of options, from the least expensive (interior caulking of the cracks) to more expensive (exterior patches of the cracks), to the most expensive (new tile drains, sump pump addition, and sealing). Each of these options involves varying degrees of cost, so I take you back to the first sentence: is it really a big deal for your basement?
In 2010, Louisville had the perfect storm for basement leaks: an incredibly dry summer following by a couple of days of deluges. Homes that had never leaked began to leak like sieves. Why? Because the unusual drought caused slight shifts in the foundation that opened existing cracks (or developed previously non-existing cracks), and didn't have a chance to shift back slowly as the earth regained moisture. Instead, the heavens opened up and the rains fell. And the basements got wet. And the waterproofing companies made a lot of money.
Next week: home inspectors in Louisville and a little bit about Brian O'Rear and HomeTeam
The fact is that basements are not waterproof unless made so by a waterproofing company. True, when a home is first constructed (nowadays), several measures are put in place to reduce the likelihood of water intrusion in the basement. However, over time basements develop small cracks, and if the surrounding earth becomes saturated with water, that water has a way of seeping in to your basement.
So the first step is to determine if you really even care. If your basement is not finished, is a little water acceptable? If it is, you're finished here and can skip the rest of the blog. If not, you have a couple of options, from the least expensive (interior caulking of the cracks) to more expensive (exterior patches of the cracks), to the most expensive (new tile drains, sump pump addition, and sealing). Each of these options involves varying degrees of cost, so I take you back to the first sentence: is it really a big deal for your basement?
In 2010, Louisville had the perfect storm for basement leaks: an incredibly dry summer following by a couple of days of deluges. Homes that had never leaked began to leak like sieves. Why? Because the unusual drought caused slight shifts in the foundation that opened existing cracks (or developed previously non-existing cracks), and didn't have a chance to shift back slowly as the earth regained moisture. Instead, the heavens opened up and the rains fell. And the basements got wet. And the waterproofing companies made a lot of money.
Next week: home inspectors in Louisville and a little bit about Brian O'Rear and HomeTeam
Friday, March 18, 2011
Lead-based paint testing, Jefferson County, KY
Essentially there are two categories of tests: a spot test taken at a defined, limited location, and a comprehensive test that samples and assesses the entire building.
After quite a bit of reading and research (feel free to peruse the KARs that deal with this issue, but they aren't written in a way that makes much sense) and discussions with various labs across the country, I was finally able to get in touch with the EPA's point of contact for our region. After speaking with her directly, all of my questions were answered. It was a two-week process, but I'll spare you the details and cut to the chase.
The bottom line is that a home inspector (or anybody, for that matter) can take spot samples onsite. However, if you want to get a full-blown assessment of the property you will need to contact a certified LBP inspector. The assessments can cost upwards of $1,000, but as mentioned before they are comprehensive and have the potential to "clear" a home, which can be a great marketing advantage. The other side of it, of course, is that if the house has LBP it needs to go on the disclosure...
We carry LBP test kits with us on each inspection (just like we carry our mold kit and radon kits, too), so if you need a test we can do it for you on the spot. The cost is $49 per area sampled, and once we take the sample we ship it to the lab for analysis. Turnaround is generally two business days.
Next week: there's a crack in my basement, and it leaks after heavy rains. What should I do? It rains more in Louisville than I ever thought it would...
After quite a bit of reading and research (feel free to peruse the KARs that deal with this issue, but they aren't written in a way that makes much sense) and discussions with various labs across the country, I was finally able to get in touch with the EPA's point of contact for our region. After speaking with her directly, all of my questions were answered. It was a two-week process, but I'll spare you the details and cut to the chase.
The bottom line is that a home inspector (or anybody, for that matter) can take spot samples onsite. However, if you want to get a full-blown assessment of the property you will need to contact a certified LBP inspector. The assessments can cost upwards of $1,000, but as mentioned before they are comprehensive and have the potential to "clear" a home, which can be a great marketing advantage. The other side of it, of course, is that if the house has LBP it needs to go on the disclosure...
We carry LBP test kits with us on each inspection (just like we carry our mold kit and radon kits, too), so if you need a test we can do it for you on the spot. The cost is $49 per area sampled, and once we take the sample we ship it to the lab for analysis. Turnaround is generally two business days.
Next week: there's a crack in my basement, and it leaks after heavy rains. What should I do? It rains more in Louisville than I ever thought it would...
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
Lead-based paint testing in Louisville
LBP (lead-based paint) began to be a recognized issue in the late 1940's. By the early 1950s most US-producers and suppliers of interior paint had voluntarily removed LBP from their shelves due to the health concerns. Exterior paints were not far behind, and by the early 1960s there were virtually no lead-based paints on the market in the US. Louisville and southern Indiana (Kentuckiana) were aligned with those broader domestic trends.
The good news, then, is LBP is probably not an issue for any homes built after the early 1950s. The bad news is that recent EPA guidance mandates that any home built in 1978 or before must comply with certain very strict rules regarding lead-based paint, specifically as it pertains to any remodeling.
The EPA's website is www.epa.gov/lead, and it is somewhat informative. What a consumer (and a realtor) should know is that they should always confirm that a contractor who may be involved in disturbing painted surfaces (this can include plumbers, painters, cabinet installers, etc- anybody who disturbs the paint) must be certified through a federal process. Some states have state-specific guidelines, but neither Kentucky nor Indiana were in that category as of the time of this writing.
So go to that website and look to the right. Click the icon, and then check to ensure your contractors are on the list. Having work done on your home without a certified contractor can cost you severe penalties. The oddity of the rule is that you, as a homeowner, can do all of the work yourself if you'd like, and you don't have to be certified! It is an "out" by the EPA to remove some of the burden for homeowners.
Next week: testing for lead-based paint in Jefferson county, KY.
The good news, then, is LBP is probably not an issue for any homes built after the early 1950s. The bad news is that recent EPA guidance mandates that any home built in 1978 or before must comply with certain very strict rules regarding lead-based paint, specifically as it pertains to any remodeling.
The EPA's website is www.epa.gov/lead, and it is somewhat informative. What a consumer (and a realtor) should know is that they should always confirm that a contractor who may be involved in disturbing painted surfaces (this can include plumbers, painters, cabinet installers, etc- anybody who disturbs the paint) must be certified through a federal process. Some states have state-specific guidelines, but neither Kentucky nor Indiana were in that category as of the time of this writing.
So go to that website and look to the right. Click the icon, and then check to ensure your contractors are on the list. Having work done on your home without a certified contractor can cost you severe penalties. The oddity of the rule is that you, as a homeowner, can do all of the work yourself if you'd like, and you don't have to be certified! It is an "out" by the EPA to remove some of the burden for homeowners.
Next week: testing for lead-based paint in Jefferson county, KY.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Mold Remediation in Louisville, KY
It is important to know that mold remediation is typically an achievable goal. Most mold problems can be taken care of for not too much expense, keeping in mind that you want to first eliminate the source of the water intrusion and then remediate the mold.
Broadly, there are two types of surfaces in the home that mold can grow on: porous and non-porous substrates. Porous substrates include wallboard, carpet, and wood, and non-porous include tile, windows, plastic or plasticised coatings... you get the picture.
Non-porous can be addressed in several ways, but to be blunt, the veyr best way is to remove and replace the non-porous surface. If that is not possible or feasible, it may be possible to treat the area and then seal it. Non-porous surfaces simply need to be cleaned, but most homeowners do not have the expertise or the correct cleaning solutions to effect such a fix. My best advice, after seeing more than my share of owner-induced disasters, is leave it up to the professionals!
One of the best companies we have worked with is AdvantaClean. As always, check them and others out, get multiple quotes, do your own homework, etc.
Their website in Louisville is
http://www.advantaclean.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=177:mold-removal-|-air-duct-cleaning-|-water-damage-repair-|-louisville-ky&Itemid=66
They serve Louisville, Oldham county, and southern indiana (Kentuckiana).
HomeTeam does mold tests in that same area.
Next week- lead based paint testing, and what you need to know about it.
Broadly, there are two types of surfaces in the home that mold can grow on: porous and non-porous substrates. Porous substrates include wallboard, carpet, and wood, and non-porous include tile, windows, plastic or plasticised coatings... you get the picture.
Non-porous can be addressed in several ways, but to be blunt, the veyr best way is to remove and replace the non-porous surface. If that is not possible or feasible, it may be possible to treat the area and then seal it. Non-porous surfaces simply need to be cleaned, but most homeowners do not have the expertise or the correct cleaning solutions to effect such a fix. My best advice, after seeing more than my share of owner-induced disasters, is leave it up to the professionals!
One of the best companies we have worked with is AdvantaClean. As always, check them and others out, get multiple quotes, do your own homework, etc.
Their website in Louisville is
http://www.advantaclean.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=177:mold-removal-|-air-duct-cleaning-|-water-damage-repair-|-louisville-ky&Itemid=66
They serve Louisville, Oldham county, and southern indiana (Kentuckiana).
HomeTeam does mold tests in that same area.
Next week- lead based paint testing, and what you need to know about it.
Mold testing- Louisville
If you have ever been in a damp home you know what it smells like and feels like. Often during a home inspection we will enter a home and almost immediately get the indications that something is growing, and it's not just the tomato plants.
Mold testing is pretty straightforward, and there are several ways to accomplish it. The question often is, "if I know (or think I know) the smell and the grey spots are mold, why should I bother testing? Why not just go straight to mold remediation?"
The answer is complex, but it revolves around the fact that there are thousands of different mold spore types, and each of us is affected differently by those spores. Some mold spores seem to have a more detrimental effect on people (remember the stacybotrus, or "black mold" hype several years ago?). So the answer to the question is dependent on whether you want or need to know not only the presence of mold, but also the spore type. If the samples come back as elevated for hyphae, for example, it's probably not as alarming as if it comes back for, say, stachybotrus, aka, "black mold".
Next week- what do I do if my mold sample comes back elevated?
Mold testing is pretty straightforward, and there are several ways to accomplish it. The question often is, "if I know (or think I know) the smell and the grey spots are mold, why should I bother testing? Why not just go straight to mold remediation?"
The answer is complex, but it revolves around the fact that there are thousands of different mold spore types, and each of us is affected differently by those spores. Some mold spores seem to have a more detrimental effect on people (remember the stacybotrus, or "black mold" hype several years ago?). So the answer to the question is dependent on whether you want or need to know not only the presence of mold, but also the spore type. If the samples come back as elevated for hyphae, for example, it's probably not as alarming as if it comes back for, say, stachybotrus, aka, "black mold".
Next week- what do I do if my mold sample comes back elevated?
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Radon basics- Pt 3- Mitigation
These photos are from my home's radon mitigation system
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20046344,00.html
As you can see, it's not rocket science (or as my former T-38 instructor pilot used to say, "It ain't rocket surgery). The simple principle is to transfer the negative pressure from inside the home to outside, and the fan does that pretty easily.
In Louisville and southern Indiana, a reputable radon mitigation company will do the work for around $1,000. Prices vary based on the configuration of the home and the aesthetic impact, but to do the basics it is usually less than $1,000.
At HomeTeam we always have a home inspector on each inspection who is also a Certified Radon Measurement Professional. We can do radon tests in conjunction with a home inspection or as a stand-alone radon inspection- just let us know what your needs are and we will serve you.
Next week: do you smell that?
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