I am asked this question quite often, and I have even googled terms such as this to find out if there is some magical "list" of REALTORs that shows the top few. While no such list really exists, some people have put together lists of top performing REALTORs by total transactions, total income, and other criteria you might expect from top-producing professionals. The majority of the best REALTORs I know are not on that list because the list is too small. There are nearly ... wait for it ... 4,000 REALTORs in the Louisville area!
Having been in the real estate business for awhile and having worked with several hundred REALTORs, I can say without question there is no "best" REALTOR out there- but there is probably a 'best" REALTOR for you. What I mean is that, just as people decide which car to buy based on their particular needs and likes, so should they select a best REALTOR fit.
You may have noticed I capitalize the word, "REALTOR". I do so for a reason: all REALTORs are real estate agents, but not all agents are REALTORs. A REALTOR is a member of the National Association of REALTORs and must adhere to certain ethical standards and other requirements of the profession; it is an important moniker and one critical in selecting your agent.
So who are the best REALTORs? They come in many forms, from the very experienced to the not-so-experienced, from the high-volume to the one- or two-a-year kind. As with any consultant or professional you hire, you should consider several people, and then check them out with an interview, by recommendation, internet investigation, or a combination of those and other factors. Find out if they are experienced in the area you are looking (some have particular knowledge of certain parts of Louisville), and if not, find out if they have connections via a mentor or colleague who may be able to assist them as they assist you.
The agencies are important as well, but here it gets a little murky since some smaller companies have tremendous capabilities in certain niche markets.
The point is to do your homework. Look around, find an agent who fits your personality type (or perhaps complements it, depending on your needs), and ensure they are interested in helping YOU. I've found the best REALTORs (based on buyer feedback) have one thing in common: they make the buyer feel protected, confident, and cared for. And isn't that pretty much what you want from any professional?
Happy house hunting!
HT initial
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Thursday, November 29, 2012
Tuesday, September 4, 2012
Inspecting roofs
Many people want to know how we go about inspecting roofs during a home inspection in Louisville. The information below is a guide and is not all-inclusive, but it should give you an idea of what most home inspectors look at, as well as identifying traditional weak spots in a roof where water intrusion is more likely to occur.
First and foremost, at HomeTeam we ALWAYS walk the roof unless there is some safety issue that would prohibit walking it. For example, if the roof has a steep pitch (slope), or if the roof is wet, snowy, or icy, we will inspect the roof from the eaves at several points or from the ground with the aid of binoculars. In all other cases, if we can get on the roof to look at it, we will. We have found there is no substitute for seeing the roof shingles and penetration points up close.
We take stock of the roof at the gutters and see if we can identify any gutter issues at eye level that may not have been visible from the ground. Do the gutters drain properly? Is there a large amount of aggregate from the roof shingles in the gutters? Do they need to be cleaned? Is it possible to identify any issues with water flow that may impact the fascia or the interior of the home?
Next, we look closely at the shingles. Here we are looking for the degree of curling and wear they exhibit. Curling of the corners occurs over time and with exposure to the elements. Wear is also usually associated simply with age of the shingles, although uneven wear, or wear associated with trees or some other impact are also important to note. Finally, when we are up close with the shingles we look for any signs of direct impact damage such as from a hail event. Other clues or indications of hail are impact points on metal, such as roof vents or gutters. These are often clues that the roof may have been exposed to damage, but they are usually not conclusive.
We look for nail pops and lifted edges next. Again, these are typically signs of age and can usually be repaired fairly inexpensively. Like most maintenance items, you should get these minor repairs accomplished before they turn into major or more expensive repairs.
Valleys are a common weak point, as is flashing. Flashing is a broad term that can apply to the areas around chimneys, the drip edge flashing, the step flashing next to vertical surfaces, and others. Flashing is critical to the health of the roof, and it is sometimes difficult to see due to the construction of the roof.
Roof penetration points are another traditional weak spot. Here I'm referring especially to the plumbing vents on the roof (usually on the rear of the home). These are usually PVC pipe, copper, or even cast iron and should have a "flashing boot collar" that diverts water away and keeps it from entering the home. The flashing boot collars are either synthetic rubber or a lead cover; the rubber types typically last about 8-10 years and then begin to deteriorate, requiring either replacement or repair (caulking). The lead collars should last forever, but for some reason squirrels seem to enjoy nibbling on them, so we often see them requiring repair or replacement after about 15 years or so.
Once you move in to your home, it's a good idea to have a roofer come out every 2-3 years to take a quick look at your roof. They will probably do it free of charge, but paying $75 or so would be a great investment. Considering the extensive damage a roof leak can cause, identifying potential problem areas prior to a big leak is a great investment.
Flat roofs, slate roofs, metal roofs... there are all sorts of variations and differences when inspecting a roof. The above information should give you a general idea of what an inspector is looking for. Remember, it's not a warranty but rather a big picture look to try to identify major deficiencies.
First and foremost, at HomeTeam we ALWAYS walk the roof unless there is some safety issue that would prohibit walking it. For example, if the roof has a steep pitch (slope), or if the roof is wet, snowy, or icy, we will inspect the roof from the eaves at several points or from the ground with the aid of binoculars. In all other cases, if we can get on the roof to look at it, we will. We have found there is no substitute for seeing the roof shingles and penetration points up close.
We take stock of the roof at the gutters and see if we can identify any gutter issues at eye level that may not have been visible from the ground. Do the gutters drain properly? Is there a large amount of aggregate from the roof shingles in the gutters? Do they need to be cleaned? Is it possible to identify any issues with water flow that may impact the fascia or the interior of the home?
Next, we look closely at the shingles. Here we are looking for the degree of curling and wear they exhibit. Curling of the corners occurs over time and with exposure to the elements. Wear is also usually associated simply with age of the shingles, although uneven wear, or wear associated with trees or some other impact are also important to note. Finally, when we are up close with the shingles we look for any signs of direct impact damage such as from a hail event. Other clues or indications of hail are impact points on metal, such as roof vents or gutters. These are often clues that the roof may have been exposed to damage, but they are usually not conclusive.
We look for nail pops and lifted edges next. Again, these are typically signs of age and can usually be repaired fairly inexpensively. Like most maintenance items, you should get these minor repairs accomplished before they turn into major or more expensive repairs.
Valleys are a common weak point, as is flashing. Flashing is a broad term that can apply to the areas around chimneys, the drip edge flashing, the step flashing next to vertical surfaces, and others. Flashing is critical to the health of the roof, and it is sometimes difficult to see due to the construction of the roof.
Roof penetration points are another traditional weak spot. Here I'm referring especially to the plumbing vents on the roof (usually on the rear of the home). These are usually PVC pipe, copper, or even cast iron and should have a "flashing boot collar" that diverts water away and keeps it from entering the home. The flashing boot collars are either synthetic rubber or a lead cover; the rubber types typically last about 8-10 years and then begin to deteriorate, requiring either replacement or repair (caulking). The lead collars should last forever, but for some reason squirrels seem to enjoy nibbling on them, so we often see them requiring repair or replacement after about 15 years or so.
Once you move in to your home, it's a good idea to have a roofer come out every 2-3 years to take a quick look at your roof. They will probably do it free of charge, but paying $75 or so would be a great investment. Considering the extensive damage a roof leak can cause, identifying potential problem areas prior to a big leak is a great investment.
Flat roofs, slate roofs, metal roofs... there are all sorts of variations and differences when inspecting a roof. The above information should give you a general idea of what an inspector is looking for. Remember, it's not a warranty but rather a big picture look to try to identify major deficiencies.
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
What does a home inpsector look for in bathrooms?
One of the most common questions we are asked is along the lines of, "What is it that you check?"
While the answer to the question depends on the particular situation, I want to devote the next several posts to answering broadly but with some details that will hopefully give you insight into our procedures.
We'll start with the bathroom since this is one of the rooms in which many hidden problems can cause major expense if not discovered in a timely manner. We go through the typical pattern in each room: ceiling, cladding, doors and windows, electrical, plumbing, and floor. Each of those broad categories has an almost limitless number of offshoots depending on the situation, but let's take a look closely at each:
Ceiling- we look closely to see if any ceiling stains are present, indicating water intrusion from above (often, first floor bathrooms are directly below second floor bathrooms). We also look to see if the bathroom has a fan, since each full bath should have an operable window or fan to take away the hot, humid air from a shower.
Cladding- are there any signs of water intrusion? any signs (particularly around doors and windows) of settling that may indicate foundation problems? We look carefully around sinks and tubs/showers to ensure they are properly caulked.
Doors/Windows- bathroom windows should be made of tempered glass (see previous post); the window should be operable if no fan is present; the standard window inspection applies here- operation, glass condition, overall condition, water intrusion
Electrical- a bathroom should have only GFI outlets. This includes GFI for a jetted tub, if present. Sometimes it is quite a hunt to locate the jetted tub's GFI (I've seen them accessible only from the kitchen; other times they are actually on a breaker in the main panel; other times they are in the outlet under the tub area; still other times they are on a wall outlet. We're persistent, but if we can't find one, we always recommend one is added. Non-GFI tubs have killed people).
Plumbing- we're looking for leaks or future leaks. We check security of the faucets/handles and the toilet. We flush the toilet 3 times. We will the sink and let it sit full of water to see if any leaks are present under the sink. We run the tub, and then we run the shower with the tub plugged to fill it approx 1 inch with water. We then drain the tub and the sink, looking for proper drainage and any leaks. The tub and sink should also be free of any holes or damage that may lead to internal leakage
Floor- one last look to see if there are any signs of structural issues or any signs of water intrusion
And that, in a nutshell, is it. There can be much more depending on what we see or find, but the whole inspection is something you can do yourself about once a year. Many of the leaks we find are not known to the home owner, and the longer a leak persists the worse the damage can be. So do yourself a favor and pick a day (January 1st works well) to do some of the inspections, and you may end up saving yourself a ton of money and headache.
While the answer to the question depends on the particular situation, I want to devote the next several posts to answering broadly but with some details that will hopefully give you insight into our procedures.
We'll start with the bathroom since this is one of the rooms in which many hidden problems can cause major expense if not discovered in a timely manner. We go through the typical pattern in each room: ceiling, cladding, doors and windows, electrical, plumbing, and floor. Each of those broad categories has an almost limitless number of offshoots depending on the situation, but let's take a look closely at each:
Ceiling- we look closely to see if any ceiling stains are present, indicating water intrusion from above (often, first floor bathrooms are directly below second floor bathrooms). We also look to see if the bathroom has a fan, since each full bath should have an operable window or fan to take away the hot, humid air from a shower.
Cladding- are there any signs of water intrusion? any signs (particularly around doors and windows) of settling that may indicate foundation problems? We look carefully around sinks and tubs/showers to ensure they are properly caulked.
Doors/Windows- bathroom windows should be made of tempered glass (see previous post); the window should be operable if no fan is present; the standard window inspection applies here- operation, glass condition, overall condition, water intrusion
Electrical- a bathroom should have only GFI outlets. This includes GFI for a jetted tub, if present. Sometimes it is quite a hunt to locate the jetted tub's GFI (I've seen them accessible only from the kitchen; other times they are actually on a breaker in the main panel; other times they are in the outlet under the tub area; still other times they are on a wall outlet. We're persistent, but if we can't find one, we always recommend one is added. Non-GFI tubs have killed people).
Plumbing- we're looking for leaks or future leaks. We check security of the faucets/handles and the toilet. We flush the toilet 3 times. We will the sink and let it sit full of water to see if any leaks are present under the sink. We run the tub, and then we run the shower with the tub plugged to fill it approx 1 inch with water. We then drain the tub and the sink, looking for proper drainage and any leaks. The tub and sink should also be free of any holes or damage that may lead to internal leakage
Floor- one last look to see if there are any signs of structural issues or any signs of water intrusion
And that, in a nutshell, is it. There can be much more depending on what we see or find, but the whole inspection is something you can do yourself about once a year. Many of the leaks we find are not known to the home owner, and the longer a leak persists the worse the damage can be. So do yourself a favor and pick a day (January 1st works well) to do some of the inspections, and you may end up saving yourself a ton of money and headache.
Thursday, May 3, 2012
HUD, foreclosure, and vacant homes
I've had several people ask if they should have a foreclosure home inspected. After all, they say, the seller will not pay for any repairs, so what's the point in getting a home inspection?
The point, of course, is to have a good idea of what you are getting yourself into! The fairly recent development of the market in which sellers pay for or correct deficiencies identified in the home inspection should not be the main reason a buyer gets an inspection. Yes, the inspection generally pays for itself several times over, but you can also look at it another way: spending a few hundred dollars can save you thousands of dollars (and lots of headache and stress) by uncovering some serious issues with the home.
In Louisville we've seen a pretty steady rate of HUD and foreclosure homes. It's not nearly as bad as the nation at large, but it's a significant number. Many of these homes are bought by investors seeking a good deal, but quite often they are bought by people who are looking for an entry-level home they will put some work into and improve over the years.
I will lump "vacant" homes in this same category, although foreclosures/HUDs are usually in much worse states due to neglect. However, a home that has been vacant for a substantial amount of time, particularly an older home, is prime for some of the following potential problems:
- plumbing leaks. When the plumbing is not used on a regular basis, drain lines dry out. Once you get back in the home and start using the plumbing, dried sediment can come loose and clog the lines. With PVC, joints can dry out and begin leaking. With supply lines, weak points that did not leak previously can begin to weep or leak. The point is this: be prepared for some leaks and/or clogs when you move into a home that has been vacant for an extended period. This is especially true of older homes. The home inspector will run lots of water in an attempt to identify any active leaks, but the fact is that some of those issues simply won't be present until the plumbing is used on a frequent basis.
- heating and air conditioning problems. This is usually a more long-term impact and stems from a system not being maintained. Always, always, always (here, I stamp my foot) get the system cleaned and serviced. More than likely the filter has not been changed regularly, and small issues like replacing a capacitor that is out of tolerance (costs less than $200) can save you from replacing a blower motor and even an entire system (several thousand dollars).
- roofs. It's an oddity to me, but homes that are vacant seem to have more roofing leaks than lived-in homes. Always keep an eye on the ceiling for even a remote sign of a stain, and get it corrected immediately. The home inspection should be able to identify any staining present at the time of the inspection, and DO NOT let those items slide.
In summary, you can save yourself quite a bit of money by getting a good home inspection, whether it is on a HUD, foreclosure, or vacant property. HomeTeam is the only company in Louisville to bring a team, including a licensed heating and air conditioning company, to each inspection. That saves you hassle, headache, and money in the long run.
The point, of course, is to have a good idea of what you are getting yourself into! The fairly recent development of the market in which sellers pay for or correct deficiencies identified in the home inspection should not be the main reason a buyer gets an inspection. Yes, the inspection generally pays for itself several times over, but you can also look at it another way: spending a few hundred dollars can save you thousands of dollars (and lots of headache and stress) by uncovering some serious issues with the home.
In Louisville we've seen a pretty steady rate of HUD and foreclosure homes. It's not nearly as bad as the nation at large, but it's a significant number. Many of these homes are bought by investors seeking a good deal, but quite often they are bought by people who are looking for an entry-level home they will put some work into and improve over the years.
I will lump "vacant" homes in this same category, although foreclosures/HUDs are usually in much worse states due to neglect. However, a home that has been vacant for a substantial amount of time, particularly an older home, is prime for some of the following potential problems:
- plumbing leaks. When the plumbing is not used on a regular basis, drain lines dry out. Once you get back in the home and start using the plumbing, dried sediment can come loose and clog the lines. With PVC, joints can dry out and begin leaking. With supply lines, weak points that did not leak previously can begin to weep or leak. The point is this: be prepared for some leaks and/or clogs when you move into a home that has been vacant for an extended period. This is especially true of older homes. The home inspector will run lots of water in an attempt to identify any active leaks, but the fact is that some of those issues simply won't be present until the plumbing is used on a frequent basis.
- heating and air conditioning problems. This is usually a more long-term impact and stems from a system not being maintained. Always, always, always (here, I stamp my foot) get the system cleaned and serviced. More than likely the filter has not been changed regularly, and small issues like replacing a capacitor that is out of tolerance (costs less than $200) can save you from replacing a blower motor and even an entire system (several thousand dollars).
- roofs. It's an oddity to me, but homes that are vacant seem to have more roofing leaks than lived-in homes. Always keep an eye on the ceiling for even a remote sign of a stain, and get it corrected immediately. The home inspection should be able to identify any staining present at the time of the inspection, and DO NOT let those items slide.
In summary, you can save yourself quite a bit of money by getting a good home inspection, whether it is on a HUD, foreclosure, or vacant property. HomeTeam is the only company in Louisville to bring a team, including a licensed heating and air conditioning company, to each inspection. That saves you hassle, headache, and money in the long run.
Monday, March 19, 2012
Tempered Glass- Louisville Home Inspection
Today we'll take a look at a subject that is often overlooked by many homebuyers, and that is glass safety. In particular, we'll take a look via some videos at tempered glass and one area in which a film covering serves a similar purpose.
So what is tempered glass, and where should it be? I'm glad you asked. If you're as old as I am or older, you remember (old) automobile windshields that would crack and shatter and become a tremendous hazard to the occupants. Car windshields were "tempered" with a process that essentially changes the properties from shattering to cracking but staying in one piece. It's an addition of a plastic that allows the transformation, and it's been quite helpful in keeping rock strikes from becoming disastrous events while traveling at 70 mph on the highway.
Windows in houses began to get some of the same treatment a few decades ago, although building codes have not mandated the changes until the last 10-20 years or so, and the process is a little different. Tempered glass for domestic use is heated and then cooled very rapidly, making it approximately 4 times harder than normal glass. The new properties cause it to "dice" into tiny pieces rather than in long, dangerous daggers of glass.
Local building codes vary, so I will speak in broad generalities here. Recall that a home inspection is not a code inspection, but we do look for safety items, and in my company this is something we look for.
Generally, we look for tempered glass to be in any bathroom areas (you don't want shattered glass around when you are naked and with slippery floors; this is a no-brainer) or in areas where somebody might fall into a big window. That's it. For parameters, we generally consider high risk areas as being near walkways (within 3 ft or so), a window that is over 9 square feet in area, and one which is close to the ground (less than 18 inches). Also, doors should have tempered glass (think "slam").
So how do you know if the window you're looking at has tempered glass? It is required to have an etching near the base with all sorts of info on it. Basically, if the glass is etched, you're probably OK.
If you have an older home or a home that does not have tempered glass in areas you think should, you can alternatively add a film to the window. The film can be decorative, tinted, clear, whatever- the point is to help prevent the window from shattering into jagged shards and hurting somebody.
Check out the vids below for more information.
And as always, contact the professionals at HomeTeam Inspection for all of your home inspection needs in Louisville and southern Indiana.
So what is tempered glass, and where should it be? I'm glad you asked. If you're as old as I am or older, you remember (old) automobile windshields that would crack and shatter and become a tremendous hazard to the occupants. Car windshields were "tempered" with a process that essentially changes the properties from shattering to cracking but staying in one piece. It's an addition of a plastic that allows the transformation, and it's been quite helpful in keeping rock strikes from becoming disastrous events while traveling at 70 mph on the highway.
Windows in houses began to get some of the same treatment a few decades ago, although building codes have not mandated the changes until the last 10-20 years or so, and the process is a little different. Tempered glass for domestic use is heated and then cooled very rapidly, making it approximately 4 times harder than normal glass. The new properties cause it to "dice" into tiny pieces rather than in long, dangerous daggers of glass.
Local building codes vary, so I will speak in broad generalities here. Recall that a home inspection is not a code inspection, but we do look for safety items, and in my company this is something we look for.
Generally, we look for tempered glass to be in any bathroom areas (you don't want shattered glass around when you are naked and with slippery floors; this is a no-brainer) or in areas where somebody might fall into a big window. That's it. For parameters, we generally consider high risk areas as being near walkways (within 3 ft or so), a window that is over 9 square feet in area, and one which is close to the ground (less than 18 inches). Also, doors should have tempered glass (think "slam").
So how do you know if the window you're looking at has tempered glass? It is required to have an etching near the base with all sorts of info on it. Basically, if the glass is etched, you're probably OK.
If you have an older home or a home that does not have tempered glass in areas you think should, you can alternatively add a film to the window. The film can be decorative, tinted, clear, whatever- the point is to help prevent the window from shattering into jagged shards and hurting somebody.
Check out the vids below for more information.
And as always, contact the professionals at HomeTeam Inspection for all of your home inspection needs in Louisville and southern Indiana.
Saturday, February 25, 2012
Fireplaces
Ah, the hearth. Picture yourself in front of a blazing fire on a snowy winter night, safe and warm, snuggled up with a nice book, relaxed, without a care in the world.
And so you should. When we light a fire in a fireplace, we expect it to remain, well, IN the fireplace. Chimney fires and other disastrous consequences of poor fireplace maintenance can cost tens of thousands of dollars, the loss of a home, or worse, the loss of life.
So what do you as a homebuyer need to know about a fireplace when you are looking for a new home? Most people want to know if the fireplace is gas or wood, and if gas, can it be converted to wood (and vice versa). A couple of inspections lately have shown a general misunderstanding of assumptions, so I want to address a few issues.
First, a fireplace designed to burn wood can be converted to gas. Usually this is done with a full set of gas logs, and the fireplace no longer continues to burn wood. This conversion should be done by a professional (often a plumber) and is usually not a problem. A variation on this theme is the wood fireplace with a gas "starter". Again, this is usually not a problem, although if not done properly difficulties and hazards can arise from have an extremely hot wood fire in contact with a gas line. You get the picture.
The most common question we get, however, is with newer homes that have gas insert fireplaces (with a flue), when people want to know if the fireplace can be converted to burning wood. I defer to fireplace experts and chimney sweeps for answers to specific fireplaces, but in general here are a few guidelines:
- if the damper is 6", the fireplace was designed for gas-only
- if the damper is 8" or more, the fireplace MAY be able to accommodate either wood or gas
- check with the specs for that particular model
A very common defect we find in home inspections in Louisville is cracks in the firebox, either in the mortar or in the brick itself. The cracks are often the result of moisture that has penetrated from the top of the chimney (usually the wash is cracked, or the flue lacks a rain cap), and those issues also need to be addressed. However, the cracks can have serious consequences if not corrected.
Similarly, we often find chimneys that have never been cleaned and have thick layers of creosote buildup. This residue can actually ignite, causing a chimney fire that can quickly get out of control, so on every home inspection we recommend any existing chimneys (for wood fireplaces) be professionally cleaned (to take care of the creosote) and THEN inspected by a chimney sweep (since only after a cleaning will smaller fissures and defects be visible.
So there you have it. Now you can enjoy the fireplace with complete peace of mind!
And so you should. When we light a fire in a fireplace, we expect it to remain, well, IN the fireplace. Chimney fires and other disastrous consequences of poor fireplace maintenance can cost tens of thousands of dollars, the loss of a home, or worse, the loss of life.
So what do you as a homebuyer need to know about a fireplace when you are looking for a new home? Most people want to know if the fireplace is gas or wood, and if gas, can it be converted to wood (and vice versa). A couple of inspections lately have shown a general misunderstanding of assumptions, so I want to address a few issues.
First, a fireplace designed to burn wood can be converted to gas. Usually this is done with a full set of gas logs, and the fireplace no longer continues to burn wood. This conversion should be done by a professional (often a plumber) and is usually not a problem. A variation on this theme is the wood fireplace with a gas "starter". Again, this is usually not a problem, although if not done properly difficulties and hazards can arise from have an extremely hot wood fire in contact with a gas line. You get the picture.
The most common question we get, however, is with newer homes that have gas insert fireplaces (with a flue), when people want to know if the fireplace can be converted to burning wood. I defer to fireplace experts and chimney sweeps for answers to specific fireplaces, but in general here are a few guidelines:
- if the damper is 6", the fireplace was designed for gas-only
- if the damper is 8" or more, the fireplace MAY be able to accommodate either wood or gas
- check with the specs for that particular model
A very common defect we find in home inspections in Louisville is cracks in the firebox, either in the mortar or in the brick itself. The cracks are often the result of moisture that has penetrated from the top of the chimney (usually the wash is cracked, or the flue lacks a rain cap), and those issues also need to be addressed. However, the cracks can have serious consequences if not corrected.
Similarly, we often find chimneys that have never been cleaned and have thick layers of creosote buildup. This residue can actually ignite, causing a chimney fire that can quickly get out of control, so on every home inspection we recommend any existing chimneys (for wood fireplaces) be professionally cleaned (to take care of the creosote) and THEN inspected by a chimney sweep (since only after a cleaning will smaller fissures and defects be visible.
So there you have it. Now you can enjoy the fireplace with complete peace of mind!
Thursday, February 9, 2012
Old Houses- lath and plaster
This week we'll take a brief look at lath and plaster walls and ceilings. These are typically found in older homes, whereas in newer homes the walls are covered with drywall. Most people are familiar with drywall- it comes in sheets (sometimes referred to as sheetrock), and it is nailed or screwed to the wood studs on the interior of the home. The seams are then taped and "mudded" (plastered) to produce a smooth, seamless wall. OK- that's the modern construction method. What about that older home you're interested in buying?
The old technique is called "lath and plaster", and you've probably seen the backside of walls in older homes and have some idea of the technique. The walls have wood studs (vertical), and then have thin wood strips (lath) going horizontally. These wood slats have gaps between them, and when the initial, or key, coat of plaster is applied, it smooshes in to fill the gaps (see video). Once this sets, it forms a key that anchors the coat of plaster to the wall, and then a finishing coat of plaster is applied.
What you need to know about lath and plaster walls is that they tend to develop cracks over time. These are age-related and can be exacerbated by high heat, excessive moisture, and other factors. Cracking of the exterior coat is usually not a cause for concern since it is most often cosmetic. The trouble comes in when the key coat begins to break down. You'll usually notice problems on ceilings first, since gravity is trying to pull the key coat down. Repair of the key coat is obviously a bit more involved and more expensive, but several companies in Louisville perform that service and can get your walls back to looking like new.
One thing to keep in mind: older homes require a different type of care from what a newer home requires. When you buy an older home, perhaps in the Highlands or Germantown, go in with the understanding that part of your ownership experience is really bound up in stewardship. As with owning a classic automobile, owning an older home provides a certain level of pride and satisfaction that you are in effect carrying the torch for awhile. Stay on top of maintenance, and when things require repair, go with a professional. It will cost more money in the short term but will likely save you money in the long run, and oh, what a difference in enjoyment of your home.
Contact us at HomeTeam (www.HTLouisville.com) if you need an inspection of an older home, or if you just want to talk about old houses.
The old technique is called "lath and plaster", and you've probably seen the backside of walls in older homes and have some idea of the technique. The walls have wood studs (vertical), and then have thin wood strips (lath) going horizontally. These wood slats have gaps between them, and when the initial, or key, coat of plaster is applied, it smooshes in to fill the gaps (see video). Once this sets, it forms a key that anchors the coat of plaster to the wall, and then a finishing coat of plaster is applied.
What you need to know about lath and plaster walls is that they tend to develop cracks over time. These are age-related and can be exacerbated by high heat, excessive moisture, and other factors. Cracking of the exterior coat is usually not a cause for concern since it is most often cosmetic. The trouble comes in when the key coat begins to break down. You'll usually notice problems on ceilings first, since gravity is trying to pull the key coat down. Repair of the key coat is obviously a bit more involved and more expensive, but several companies in Louisville perform that service and can get your walls back to looking like new.
One thing to keep in mind: older homes require a different type of care from what a newer home requires. When you buy an older home, perhaps in the Highlands or Germantown, go in with the understanding that part of your ownership experience is really bound up in stewardship. As with owning a classic automobile, owning an older home provides a certain level of pride and satisfaction that you are in effect carrying the torch for awhile. Stay on top of maintenance, and when things require repair, go with a professional. It will cost more money in the short term but will likely save you money in the long run, and oh, what a difference in enjoyment of your home.
Contact us at HomeTeam (www.HTLouisville.com) if you need an inspection of an older home, or if you just want to talk about old houses.
Friday, January 27, 2012
Heating and Air Conditioning inspection
One of the benefits of using HomeTeam is our high level of service to the buyer, and part of that includes having your heating and air conditioning system inspected by a licensed HVAC technician. A typical home inspection in Louisville includes some very basic tests of the system, but we go much, much farther than that. From typical standards of practice, here are the basics:
9.0 SYSTEM: HEATING
9.1 The inspector shall observe:
A. Permanently installed heating systems including:
1. heating equipment
2. normal operating controls
3. automatic safety controls
4. chimneys, flues, and vents
5. solid fuel heating devices
6. heat distribution systems including fans, pumps, ducts and piping, with supports,
dampers, insulation, air filters, registers, radiators, fan-coil units, convectors
7. the presence of an installed heat source in each room
9.2 The inspector shall:
A. describe:
1. energy source
2. heating equipment and distribution type
B. operate the systems using normal operating controls
C. open readily openable access panels provided by the manufacturer or installer for routine homeowner maintenance
9.3 The inspector is NOT required to:
A. operate heating systems when weather conditions or other circumstances may cause equipment damage
B. operate automatic safety controls.
C. ignite or extinguish solid fuel fires.
D. observe:
1. the interior of flues
2. fireplace insert flue connections
3. humidifiers
4. electronic air filters
5. the uniformity or adequacy of heat supply to the various rooms
10.0 SYSTEM: CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING
10.1 The inspector shall observe:
A. Central Air Conditioning including:
1. cooling and air handling equipment
2. normal operating controls
B. distribution systems including:
1. fans, pumps, ducts and piping, with supports, dampers, insulation, air filters, registers
and fan-coil units
2. the presence of an installed cooling source in each room
10.2 The inspector shall:
A. describe:
1. energy sources.
2. cooling equipment type.
B. operate the systems using normal operating controls.
C. open readily openable access panels provided by the manufacturer or installer for routine homeowner maintenance
10.3 The inspector is NOT required to:
A. operate cooling systems when weather conditions or other circumstances may cause equipment damage.
B. observe non-central air conditioners
C. observe the uniformity or adequacy of cool-air supply to the various rooms
In a nutshell, this is a very topical look at your HVAC system. We do all of this, of course, and much, much more. And remember that most home warranties require you to have a licensed HVAC tech inspect your system anyway, so why not kill two birds with one stone and have us bring him with us?
Next week: plumbing
9.0 SYSTEM: HEATING
9.1 The inspector shall observe:
A. Permanently installed heating systems including:
1. heating equipment
2. normal operating controls
3. automatic safety controls
4. chimneys, flues, and vents
5. solid fuel heating devices
6. heat distribution systems including fans, pumps, ducts and piping, with supports,
dampers, insulation, air filters, registers, radiators, fan-coil units, convectors
7. the presence of an installed heat source in each room
9.2 The inspector shall:
A. describe:
1. energy source
2. heating equipment and distribution type
B. operate the systems using normal operating controls
C. open readily openable access panels provided by the manufacturer or installer for routine homeowner maintenance
9.3 The inspector is NOT required to:
A. operate heating systems when weather conditions or other circumstances may cause equipment damage
B. operate automatic safety controls.
C. ignite or extinguish solid fuel fires.
D. observe:
1. the interior of flues
2. fireplace insert flue connections
3. humidifiers
4. electronic air filters
5. the uniformity or adequacy of heat supply to the various rooms
10.0 SYSTEM: CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING
10.1 The inspector shall observe:
A. Central Air Conditioning including:
1. cooling and air handling equipment
2. normal operating controls
B. distribution systems including:
1. fans, pumps, ducts and piping, with supports, dampers, insulation, air filters, registers
and fan-coil units
2. the presence of an installed cooling source in each room
10.2 The inspector shall:
A. describe:
1. energy sources.
2. cooling equipment type.
B. operate the systems using normal operating controls.
C. open readily openable access panels provided by the manufacturer or installer for routine homeowner maintenance
10.3 The inspector is NOT required to:
A. operate cooling systems when weather conditions or other circumstances may cause equipment damage.
B. observe non-central air conditioners
C. observe the uniformity or adequacy of cool-air supply to the various rooms
In a nutshell, this is a very topical look at your HVAC system. We do all of this, of course, and much, much more. And remember that most home warranties require you to have a licensed HVAC tech inspect your system anyway, so why not kill two birds with one stone and have us bring him with us?
Next week: plumbing
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Radon mitigation
I've spoken of the high radon levels in Louisville before, but I wanted to give you an idea of how easy it is to mitigate the risk. As a reminder, radon gas is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the US according to the EPA (next to smoking), and the really good news is that it is very simple to keep the radon levels in the home below the recommended mitigation threshold of 4.0 pico Curies per liter (pCi/L).
The system is basically a PVC pipe stuck in the slab of the home on the lowest level that vents to the outside of the home. A fan housing is attached and runs 24/7, putting a slight negative pressure under the foundation of the home. That small pressure differential is enough to lower the radon levels significantly. In fact, we have tested many homes for radon that had an operational radon system in place, and I've never seen a radon level above 4.0 in any of those homes. Check out the video for more.
The system is basically a PVC pipe stuck in the slab of the home on the lowest level that vents to the outside of the home. A fan housing is attached and runs 24/7, putting a slight negative pressure under the foundation of the home. That small pressure differential is enough to lower the radon levels significantly. In fact, we have tested many homes for radon that had an operational radon system in place, and I've never seen a radon level above 4.0 in any of those homes. Check out the video for more.
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